Tucked into the green hills of Cantabria, near the medieval town of Santillana del Mar, the Cave of Altamira contains some of the most extraordinary Paleolithic art ever discovered. Often called the "Sistine Chapel of Prehistory," the cave's polychrome ceiling paintings of bison, horses, deer, and hand stencils have captivated researchers and visitors since their discovery in the late nineteenth century.
A History of Discovery and Controversy
The cave was first explored by Modesto Cubillas around 1868, but it was Marcelino Sanz de Sautuola and his young daughter Maria who are credited with recognizing the significance of the ceiling paintings in 1879. When Sautuola published his findings, the academic world reacted with skepticism. Many scholars refused to believe that prehistoric humans were capable of producing art of such sophistication and declared the paintings to be modern forgeries.
It was not until similar discoveries were made in other parts of France and Spain in the early 1900s that Altamira's authenticity was finally accepted. By then, Sautuola had already died without seeing his discovery vindicated. The story serves as a reminder of how slowly established ideas can shift, even in the face of physical evidence.
The Paintings
The most celebrated section is the polychrome ceiling of the main chamber, spanning roughly 18 meters in length. The artists used the natural contours and protrusions of the rock surface to add three-dimensional depth to their work. Bumps in the stone become the musculature of bison. Curves in the ceiling suggest the arch of an animal's back.
The paintings were created using a combination of red ochre, charcoal, and iron oxide pigments. Analysis suggests that different techniques were employed over a long period, with some images painted, others drawn, and some engraved into the rock. The bison figures are particularly striking for their dynamic poses, suggesting movement and life in a way that challenges assumptions about the artistic capabilities of people living 15,000 to 20,000 years ago.
Beyond the famous ceiling, the cave contains over 900 individual painted or engraved images spread across multiple chambers. These include handprints, abstract symbols, and representations of deer, horses, and wild boar. Together, they form one of the most comprehensive collections of Upper Paleolithic art anywhere in the world.
Why the Original Cave Is Closed
Altamira was opened to the public in 1917 and received up to 170,000 visitors per year by the 1970s. The constant flow of people introduced humidity, carbon dioxide, and temperature changes that began to damage the paintings. Green algae started growing on the rock surfaces, and condensation threatened to dissolve the pigments.
The cave was closed entirely in 1977 and reopened briefly in 1982 with strictly limited access (about 8,500 visitors per year). A full closure was enforced again in 2002. Since 2015, a very limited experimental program has allowed tiny groups of five visitors per week into the original cave by random selection, but for all practical purposes, direct access to the paintings is no longer available to the general public.
Visiting the Altamira Museum and Neocave
- The Altamira National Museum and Research Centre is located next to the original cave entrance.
- The Neocave is a painstaking reproduction of the original cave, built using the same dimensions, rock textures, and pigment compositions. The experience is remarkably close to what visiting the real cave would feel like.
- The museum also houses exhibits on Paleolithic life, the techniques used to create cave art, and the broader context of human development during the last Ice Age.
- Open year-round except Mondays. Advance booking is recommended during summer months.
The Broader Context: Cave Art in Northern Spain
Altamira is part of a larger concentration of Paleolithic cave art sites in the Cantabrian region. In 2008, UNESCO expanded its World Heritage listing to include 17 caves across the region under the title "Cave of Altamira and Paleolithic Cave Art of Northern Spain." This recognition acknowledges that the artistic tradition was not confined to a single location but was practiced across a wide area over thousands of years.
Other notable sites in the group include the caves of El Castillo, Tito Bustillo, Covalanas, and La Pasiega. While most of these are also restricted for conservation reasons, several offer guided visits or have visitor centers with reproductions and educational exhibits. The Monte Castillo caves near Puente Viesgo are particularly accessible and provide a useful complement to the Altamira experience.
Understanding What You See
Scholars continue to debate the purpose of Paleolithic cave art. Theories range from hunting rituals and shamanic practices to early forms of storytelling and mapmaking. What is clear is that the creators of these images were not casual doodlers. The paintings at Altamira demonstrate careful observation of animal anatomy, deliberate composition, and a command of artistic techniques that remained unmatched until the Renaissance.
When visiting the Neocave reproduction, take time to examine how the artists incorporated the rock surface into their compositions. The best of these paintings are not simply images placed on a surface but collaborative works between human creativity and geological form.
Getting There
The Altamira Museum is located about 2 kilometers southwest of Santillana del Mar, one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Spain and worth a visit in its own right. The nearest major city is Santander, approximately 30 kilometers to the east, which has an airport with connections to several European cities. The regional bus service connects Santillana del Mar with Santander and other coastal towns.